We are flying by the seat of our pants on this one tonight folks. I’ve not only lost the receipt from when I bought tonight’s whiskey, but it was long enough ago that I honestly don’t even remember where I bought it, much less how much it cost. It was long enough ago that all of the snow that is in the photo above (about a foot and a half or so) has melted and is currently in the process of being replaced by upwards of two feet of new snow.
I don’t usually wait so long between purchase and review, but it got stuck behind something and overlooked for, I’m guessing three months or so. It seems one of the many things that I’ve forgotten about this whiskey is exactly when I bought it. Let’s move forward with what I do know though.
I first became aware of New Riff’s Balboa Rye Bottled in Bond Whiskey when it was re-released as part of their Fall 2020 slate of Whiskey Club Releases. I know this because I bought the other two of the three that were released that October and because I never delete an email if I can help it. It was part of a, probably ill-advised, harrowing two day road trip to Cincinnati and back during the height of the Pandemic. I doubt I will ever again drive that far in one day only to turn around and drive back home the next.
So first things first, what is Balboa Rye? Why is it the name of this whiskey? Is this some sort of Rocky reference? In reverse order:
No.
It is the name of the rye variety in used in the mash bill
Balboa Rye is an heirloom rye grain grown by New Riff’s Corn farmer Charles Fogg. The variety dates back to the 1940s and, according to the New Riff website was popular in Indiana at the time.
So what is an heirloom rye grain? I’m going to let New Riff’s website tell you this one since their explanation will probably also answer many of your followup questions.
Heirloom rye presents a great challenge to those that grow heirloom crops. Winter rye is a promiscuous grain that can easily cross-pollinate. Winter rye seeds must be grown in isolation to accurately produce seed varieties. If they are allowed to cross with other varieties, the identity of the original will be lost. Farmers and distillers that use heirloom rye have to start with seeds from one particularly known provenance. Depending on the person, ‘heirloom’ can have many different meetings. Typically, the term refers to older varieties of rye (or other plants, or livestock) that date from the early 20th century or even back into the 1800s. Older varieties are often discarded by farmers due to their lower yield. For distillers, however, a low yield can be beneficial because there are more flavorful grains wherever there are lower yields. This is the same for wine, where lower-yielding vines are highly prized for depth of flavor in their grapes. Heirloom grains, including rye, have disadvantages that can make them tough to work with. They’re less disease-resistant and more susceptible to insects. The older varieties are more susceptible to disease, and don’t yield as well. For those who produce rye whiskey, like New Riff, the choice to grow single-strain or heirloom rye is impactful. A way to showcase the provenance of rye grains is through the wonderful rye whiskey from New Riff Distilling.
So now that that is out of the way, let’s see how this tastes and see if I was unlucky back in 2020, when it was sold out before I could buy it on my overnight adventure.
New Riff Balboa Rye Bottled-in-Bond
Purchase Info: Honestly…no idea. It looks like the MSRP was $49.99 back in 2020 so I’ll go with that.
Price per Drink (50 mL): $3.33
Details: 4 years old, 50% ABV, Bottled-in- Bond. Mash bill: 95% Balboa Rye, 5% malted rye. Non-Chill Filtered.
Nose: Cedar, cinnamon, brown sugar, menthol, a deep earthy note.
Mouth: Spicy cinnamon, caramel, mint, and almonds.
Finish: Medium-long and warm with notes of cinnamon and almond.
Thoughts: This is one of the more interesting whiskies that have come across my desk in recent months. Please don't confuse "most interesting" with "best" though. It’s quite good, don’t get me wrong, it's just different enough that I will probably need to be in the mood for some thing interesting and different before I reach for this one. Which is fine, since it looks like none of the stores near me are currently carrying it.
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